There is a reason why the sneaker does everything to “premium itself”

The reason is to raise the brand perception while raising the green bar by returning to the use of leather as an example of durability and an unbeatable look. But also by choosing to produce these sneaker new models in Italy, where the supply chain guarantees greater certainty in terms of ethical and sustainable production

by Massimiliano Viti

 

From the need to improve sports performance to catwalks. From the feet of the best athletes to the feet of everyone. This is the evolution of the sneaker, consisting mainly of two components, now as then: rubber and leather. The latest trend of the sports giants, after the binge of collaborations, even the most unlikely and least profitable ones, is to make the most iconic sports models more formal and luxurious. This strategy aims to premiumise the trainer and, consequently also, the brand. But also raise the bar on sustainability.

There is a reason

With a higher quality of raw materials and the entire product, the durability of the final product increases. But it is, above all, the production entrusted to the Italian supply chain, rather than that of several South-East Asian countries, that makes a decisive leap forward in terms of ethical and sustainable production.

What did Adidas do?

Adidas launched the Samba model – strictly Made in Italy – with a black crocodile texture and, in October 2024, continued in this vein. The bar has been raised again with a new model that is a candidate to be the most valuable and most expensive shoe in its history. It is the Samba Vachetta Tan, made in Italy using the bag technique, with a leather upper and lining. A shoe that could very well pass as an elegant shoe were it not for its Three Stripes branding. Not only that.

The German brand seems to want to continue on this path and is repeating the same Samba operation with another iconic and oversold model: Gazelle. In other words, a Gazelle Indoor Made In Italy version is about to be released, inspired by the traditional Italian dress shoe. For now, all we know is that it will be made ‘in locally sourced black leather‘. The chunked bottom will give the model a formal shoe feel.

What did Nike do?

At the end of October 2024, it launched a luxury version of its iconic Air Force 1 model. It’s called the ’07 LV8 ‘D’ Sunset 1982: brown leather upper and worn-in look. A brilliantly successful new restyling, offering a more formal look. The swoosh brand also seems to want to ride this trend. Next spring, the iconic Shox model will also embrace leather. It will be called the Shox Ride 2 Premium. A move that the Oregon-based giant has also made on the Air Rift and, before that, the Killshot 2 Retro. With a complete leather makeover, Nike has taken its classics to another level of style.

It’s an old story

Today, raising the quality level of the product is considered a strategy, but before the advent of technical materials and lightweight footwear as dogma, it was the norm. In fact, sports shoes were already premium, and this characteristic was instrumental in taking them from the tennis or basketball court to the street, changing the paradigm of the trainer, and giving rise to this phenomenon. Let us take as an example three models that have made trainer history in sport: Adidas Stan Smith, Converse All Star and Nike Air Jordan 1.

Stan Smith

Adidas launched a new era in tennis in 1965 when it introduced the first leather shoes for the sport. The company found its testimonial in Robert Haillet. After his retirement, Stan Smith was chosen. The introduction of leather brought about a disruptive change, creating a new way of thinking about tennis shoes. “It was the only leather shoe (on tennis courts),” says Smith. “At the time, it was considered a kind of high-tech (compared to) canvas shoe. An improvement over other shoes.”

Converse All Star

Let’s come to basketball. The first version of the Converse All-Star, before it became the Chuck Taylor, was produced in 1917. It was made of natural brown canvas with black trim. In the 1920s, the ‘luxury’ model in leather, completely black, came out. It was stronger, more durable, and also more beautiful to look at.

Air Jordan 1

What turned trainer culture into a real phenomenon, however, was the March 1985 release of Nike’s Air Jordan 1. They were made of leather and cost $65. Nike predicted they would sell for $3 million in three years. At the end of the first year, the number of millions was 126.

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