“Wars, crises, inflation, climate change: everything affects fashion. Even the political climate is, globally, causing people to dress in a more modest way”. The psychology of luxury consumption is more and more concerning modernity, as explained by Dawnn Karen and Carolyn Mair
by Massimiliano Viti
Fashion consumption is experiencing the consequences of the increasingly important role of a psychological approach aimed at the act of purchasing something. It has always been happening, but not with the current intensity. It is not a coincidence that two of the most recent and destabilizing consumption trends are born exactly from an horizon of action possibilities that starts from the buying psychology. It is the case of the Chinese “luxury shame”. In Beijing and other metropolises, the wealthy citizens are judged if they show in public their own economical condition.
The aim is to trigger and incite against them a wave of “social shame”, in order to psychologically force them not to purchase the Western luxury, to the advantage of national brands. Another example is represented by the trend of “quiet luxury”. Not shown off, but discrete. Without logos in plain sight. Considering both the examples, the importance isn’t directly linked to the wallet: but the key element is the aim, which is to psychologically condition its owner.
Between various crises and public shame
“Wars, crises, inflation, climate change: everything affects fashion. Even the political climate is, globally, causing people to dress in a more modest way”, states Dawnn Karen, founder of The Fashion Psychology Field and of the Fashion Psychology Institute. “People are aware that they are essentially unable to control what is currently happening. But they are able to manage what they wear” explains Karen, who forecasts a return of the 70s trends, both for men and women. A trend based on peace, love and happiness.
More intangible rewards
Much more impactful on consumption is the trend in which the rich consumers have almost refused to reward themselves with the purchase of luxury goods. After decades of growth, luxury consumption has experienced a clear slowdown. “The increase in prices of these products has shifted their role from prize to an indicator of exclusivity. More and more rich consumers are currently focusing their attention on more intangible rewards, such as experiences, philanthropy, or the investment on personal growth, which provide a deeper fulfillment”, as explained by the psychologist Carolyn Mair, author of the global bestseller The Psychology of Fashion. “The cultural change aimed at minimalism – continues Mair – is able to further explain this tendency, as the display of wealth, currently, is more and more seen as an example of bad taste”.
The reasons of “quiet luxury”
This is the soil on which “quiet luxury” has been growing and thriving. “From a psychological perspective, it indicates that the person that grants himself with it is aware of how he will be perceived by others”, states Dawnn Karen. “This person is also conscious about external factors such as, for example, war and crisis. With the aim of avoiding having a negative impact on people, he grants himself with a quiet luxury”, underlines Karen.
The age factor
The balance of an adult in a schizophrenic environment can’t characterize the one that belongs to a younger person, who has a significantly different approach to the purchase of a fashion product. “Today’s young people show a much more explorative behaviour, as they are pushed by the abundance of possibilities available to them, as well as by the desire of something new”, as stated by Carolyn Mair, who is sure that social media are currently exaggerating this situation, by exposing the younger consumers to a constant proposal of new brands and trends. All of this “promotes a culture linked to rapid experimentation, instead of loyalty. The previous generations showed more loyalty to brands. They had restricted choice and a much more impactful perception of a brand as a reliable long-term investment”, as highlighted by Mair.
Leather’s time
By looking at the runways, at the first rows of runway shows, at celebrities’ favourite looks, but even at the outfits that we see in our cities, it seems to be a golden time for leather. “ The psychological links with the various materials come often from their tactile qualities, cultural connections and personal experiences. Leather is often related to qualities such as duration, luxury and power, in line with the psychological needs for status and control” states Mair. In other words, every material is associated with a perception. Lace to delicacy, elegance and romanticism. Cotton is related to comfort, simplicity and practicality. Velvet recalls luxury and abundance. Not only.
Dopamine dressing
In the book Dress Your Best Life, Dawnn Karen presents a particular theory titled “dopamine dressing”, which means “feeling better about what you wear”. “People could be convinced that a brighter color makes them feel better, but this is also possible with paillettes, leather, pois, or other elements. So, even materials, as well as models or colors, represent a way of feeling better with ourselves. And I will say that, occasionally, I am used to wearing leather in order to dress myself with dopamine”, concludes Karen.
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