There was time, long ago, during which the absolute must of fashion was represented by the second line. It truly was the mantra of those who produced them and of the audience of consumers who bought them. But the golden age of fashion seems so far in time and among all the fashion trends that were launched at the beginning of the ‘90s, nowadays only a few actually survive. Or they’ve transformed into something completely different
di Domenico Casoria
For years they’ve been the connection instrument between the fashion world and that great deal of customers who wanted to have a say in terms of style but certainly with a lower budget and purchasing power. Then, something broke, and from a point in which they were considered as an inexpensive alternative, they’ve quickly become obsolete, sometimes even unnecessary. Overtaken by the even more accessible products of fast fashion or by the boom of second hand, which made available items from mainlines at a much lower price compared to the price list. So, the question arises: what happened to fashion’s second lines? And, looking ahead, could they rise again in order to revive a system that is right now collapsing?
What happened to second lines?
The forerunners were Giorgio Armani and Miuccia Prada, followed closely by the duo Dolce&Gabbana. The first with Emporio Armani in 1984, while the second with Miu Miu in 1993. Both still in business and, based on what we know, definitely healthy. Giorgio Armani gave life to a parallel line, more young-looking, less formal and more experimental compared to the main one. Miuccia Prada, instead, started from scratch. Not with a revisited copy of the family brand, but with an abstract entity that, with time, has become a cornerstone of fashion, a brand nowadays capable of subverting canonical codes. This needs to be said: they both were pioneers. In addition to Emporio, for example, Armani created EA7 and Armani Exchange.
Then, as a consequence, everyone started to get on the bandwagon of second lines, with the aim of discovering this Holy Grail and maximizing their profit. D&G, Marc by Marc Jacobs, REDValentino, See by Chloé, Versus Versace (reabsorbed by the original brand), Versace Jeans Couture, Raf by Raf Simons, Ermanno by Ermanno Scervino. All closed and – due to force majeure – forgotten or replaced or, even worse, no longer appealing to that old target clientele who previously had the budget to feel like an active part of the game and who, nowadays, no longer intend to spend a fortune on items that are hardly recognizable and all look alike. Anyway, there’s someone who proves to be capable of surviving: MM6 by Maison Margiela, DRKSHDW by Rick Owens, Madden Girl by Steve Madden and Just Cavalli, clearly in addition to Emporio Armani.
A brand new world
A revolutionized world, also due (or thanks) to streetwear, which redefined the limits of luxury by introducing collaborations between brands or relying on temporary capsule collections with great media appeal. Or, as said, overtaken by the boom of second hand, which spread through platforms such as Vinted or Vestiaire Collective – or simply through second hand boutiques – in which nowadays it is easier to find products in good conditions coming from fashion’s main lines.
Surely, second lines have allowed brands to experiment various styles, aiming – clearly – at a target audience that is different from the starting one. Precisely that intermediate target which – nowadays – has distanced itself from fashion due to excessively high prices and to products that essentially have nothing to tell. The other theme is the product. Since all fashion brands that have (or had) a second line, have started from the clothing industry. Essentially because it is easier to divide into various segments and it has wider profit margins.
Not the accessories, which are entry level, but the dresses. Without considering the production matter, which nowadays would need to be much more transparent and to have a more traceable supply chain. Then, there is a difference in creativity terms. Second lines have always followed in the footsteps of the main brand. Marc Jacobs drew, in addition to the main line, even Marc by Marc Jacobs. Donatella Versace was the true creative needle of Versus Versace although the collaborations with young creatives such as Anthony Vaccarello. Just as Giorgio Armani, who has always controlled all his creative knowledge. A copy – in the most inspirational meaning of the term – of the beloved son, which however brought to a dilution of the general image and to a much wider sense of confusion.
Where did the customer go?
So, the question arises: where did the customer go? And, returning to these second lines could revive the financial reports of these fashion maisons? The question seems to be more difficult than it actually is, considering that now the fashion brands seem to have other issues to deal with, such as the various changes at the top or current spreading of a much more general distrust. One thing is sure. Fashion has to define its program more clearly, in order to rebuild from scratch, before risking losing even more ground or the last customers it has left.
Photos Just Cavalli, Versace Jeans Couture, Armani Exchange
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