See now, buy now, the model that makes it possible to purchase items immediately after they appear on the catwalk, without waiting for the traditional fashion calendar, has recently returned to the centre of the luxury debate. It is a formula adopted by Gucci to get instant feedback after Demna’s first fashion show. But it is also (perhaps) a promise. To better understand how “see now buy now” works between risks and hype, we spoke with Erika Andreetta, Senior Partner at PwC Italy & EMEA Luxury Leader
by Domenico Casoria
The immediacy of desire
Let’s start with a given: “see now, buy now” was created to capture consumers who live in the real-time context of social media. When a look (or an event) explodes online, the expectation is to be able to buy it immediately. “The main opportunity is its ability to shorten the distance between trend exposure and desire satisfaction,” points out Erika Andreetta, Senior Partner at PwC Italy & EMEA Luxury Leader. Because it is precisely this immediacy that ignites desire. Digital amplification enhances everything: social media, e-commerce, coordinated storytelling. It is a model that works best when it focuses on a few items, in selected stores and for limited time frames. As was the case with Gucci.
See now, buy now: between risks and hype
But it could be a model that is not without risks, both from the point of view of the supply chain and from the point of view of narrative. In addition to a general trivialisation of luxury. Behind the seduction of ‘buy now what I see now’ lies a complexity that few brands can afford. ‘The main risk is industrial, even more so than image,’ adds Andreetta. The model requires reverse planning, as opposed to traditional planning: producing before orders are placed, tying up capital, and assuming the risk of unsold stock. It is a luxury that only those who truly control the supply chain can afford. The second risk concerns scale: what works for selected capsules becomes unmanageable when applied to an entire collection.
Andreetta puts it clearly: “Its full application risks upsetting the delicate balance between operational speed, economic sustainability and perceived brand value.” And then there is the symbolic issue: time in luxury follows a specific narrative. If immediacy appears to be a tactical move to plug problems, the aura is damaged. However, “used strategically and selectively, see now buy now can also reinforce exclusivity. It is no different from the concept of pre-drop or the logic of capsules: immediacy becomes part of the premium experience, especially for customers who value instantaneity. The important thing is that the narrative remains under control: immediacy must not mean trivialisation, but care in access’. This is useful, among other things, for attracting younger consumers.
The Gucci case
The Gucci case is emblematic in understanding whether it works. This experiment carried out by the brand was not a return to full see now buy now, but a demonstration of how to use it surgically. “A controlled experiment, perfectly calibrated to today’s competitive and digital context,” explains the expert. The immediate availability of certain looks generated hype around the new creative director, reignited social media conversation and captured immediate volumes in a relaunch phase. But without compromising the traditional pace of luxury. Because, once again, the model only works if it is supported by agile supply chains, direct control of channels and a clear strategic vision.
Above all, it cannot become the norm. “Luxury is based on controlling the time of possession: the anticipation, distance and ritual of the purchase are an integral part of its value, as are craftsmanship and production complexity. Making immediacy systemic would mean shifting the brand from a logic of constructed desire to one of immediate response to demand.” In short, see now buy now is not the new grammar of luxury. However, it could resemble a comma to be used when a colon is needed.
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