Emanuele Morelli, artistic director and AI media designer, is among the pioneers of the implementation of generative artificial intelligence in visual communication, design and fashion. In just a few years, he has elevated the role of the creative professional in an ever-evolving technological ecosystem. But, behind the marvellous images portrayed by Morelli, emerges a deep consideration on ethics, risks and responsibilities, as he tells us during this interview
by Domenico Casoria
Emanuele Morelli isn’t just a mere executor, not even a person that “only” works with artificial intelligence. He is a creative talent for all intents and purposes. “I’ve studied fashion design at Poliarte, in Ancona. During the pandemic, I had already started working with digital art. When OpenAI accepted me, I knew it was my calling. I wrote my thesis on the potential of AI and, by the time, I started to publish content on LinkedIn. In this way, this is how my work essentially came about”. Actually, Morelli works firsthand with creativity. But, not with an automated one, as he deals with a particular kind of augmented imagination.
A brand new creative ecosystem
Therefore, the designer precisely underlines that “it’s not the tool that makes the difference, but the person that uses it”. This expression holds the impactful shift in the paradigm. “AI is able to transform my vision into words or images, but behind the result there is the prompt, the concept, the history. I analyse the brand, I put my creative 2% into it and I start to build a narration. The machine is just a means to an end”, adds Morelli. Even if, when the brands reach out to him, the game changes.
“Some of them show me a detailed brief, while others give me free rein. I metaphorically take them right through a sort of midland, as the companies are not always aware of the actual functioning of AI – as stated by the professional. I always say that brands need to be reprogrammed as, in order to work efficiently with AI, even the processes need to encounter some changes”. A warning, almost, directed to all the brands that are currently embarking on this new world. “Building and setting an efficient strategy needs time to be done, and the aim cannot be to merely cut costs. Storytelling is key”.
The risks
As every other innovation, AI carries both risks and incredible potential. “The ethical risk is enormous. AI doesn’t generate normal models, it is unable to represent reality, in particular in terms of race, gender or bodies. In fashion, in which a key role is played by inclusivity, this issue emerges in a true impactful way. I am a promoter of the creator’s responsibility. When I have free rein, I always try to be ethically correct”.
Potential
The possibilities are, in fact, almost unlimited. The most important, as stated by Emanuele Morelli, concerns the concept of time as a brand new creative approach. “It takes little time, both professionally and effectively. Before, you needed a lot of skills, but right now all you need are good ideas. AI allows you to elevate your profession, by democratizing it. I went from being a student to a creative director in a span of two years. My employees are the tools that I use.
But, artistically, it makes no difference: the quality is related to ideas and inputs”. Still, there are a number of risks that, as believed by the creative professional, are due to regulamentation. “Governments are slow, and there is no protection, it’s like the Wild West. Actually, I really enjoyed what has been done by Copenhagen, allowing copyright on the citizens’ own faces. It’s a great step towards limiting the spreading of deep fake”.
Creative directors in progress
We were talking about the variables within this theme, as the criticism against AI frequently revolves around the fact that, sooner or later, it will end up taking over the human factor, or worse, over the emotional one. “I strongly believe that AI won’t be actually able to replace the role of the creative directors. It doesn’t know the brand, it just interprets it in a generic way. On the other hand, I am able to interiorize it, to live it. But, you still need a good architect”. Surely, if we can’t talk about a replacement, AI could at least help him. After all, Morelli himself has already designed an entire collection for a fashion brand. “It will be released during the summer of 2027, but we are not talking about luxury.”
Nowadays, at what stage are the brands?
Finally, an invitation to brands that , as stated by Morelli, are often absolutely not ready for this innovative and new creative paradigm, or they don’t recognize its potential. “They feel themselves to be forced, and this leads to catastrophic results. The key word is strategy.” Morelli boasts heavy caliber clients in the fashion industry, such as Lanvin or Sergio Rossi. But, “brands par excellence which I would like to collaborate with are Iris Van Herpen and Balenciaga. Always by keeping in mind that is the person who does the work”. So, in the future of AI (and of fashion), the difference will always be made by those who imagine. Creating and designing worlds that, currently, don’t exist. In other words: we are safe.
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