The reasons that led fashion labels not to take anymore into consideration diffusion lines are various and have different nature. What are those? Could it be time to consider their revival? This topic is discussed by Stefania Saviolo (SDA Bocconi School of Management) and Massimiliano Tintinelli (Forall Pal Zileri – Mayhoola)
di Massimiliano Viti
The continuous increase in prices of branded products, which forced consumers to search for alternatives, and the rise of the unsold has brought back the interest on “second lines”. In other words, the diffusion lines or sub-brands that recall the style of the main maisons at a much more accessible price, and that were in vogue several decades ago. Actually, before being progressively dismantled. But, there are a few that remain highly topical, and that were able to take advantage from the current market situation. For instance: MM6 Maison Margiela, DRKSHDW by Rick Owens, Heaven by Marc Jacobs, Comme Des Garçons Play. It can be considered legitimate to suppose or forecast a new golden age for second lines?
New concepts, new stories
“Clearly not as the ones that we used to know 30 years ago, which had a business model, often licensed, that could not be replicated. Nowadays, you need to know where and how to sell those specific products, as well as which target customer audience to address. The risk is to run into the same management errors and, most importantly, distribution issues that caused their dismantlement”, as explained by Stefania Saviolo, lecturer of Fashion and Luxury Management at Bocconi University in Milan and SDA Bocconi School of Management. Saviolo believes that it would be appropriate to create new concepts, new stories and new collaboration in order to try to reconnect with a clientele that, in addition to the rejection of the increase in prices, seems to be bored by an excessively conformed luxury, essentially identical.
“It is essential to define a project and a clear business model, with a brand that needs to have its own coherent identity and, essentially, something to say. A line with simply a lower price is not enough”, as underlined by the lecturer. Massimiliano Tintinelli, member of the board of directors at the Forall Pal Zileri group, owned by Mayhoola – parent company of Valentino and Balmain – is also strongly convinced about this. “The luxury needs to search for new codes with the aim of escaping the current homogenisation. The second line could be the one in which the brand dares the most, in creative terms. But the challenge is still related to the perception of value, which is: brand identity and quality of the product”.
A cannibalization phenomenon
Based on Saviolo’s words, second lines were closed due to a series of factors, such as a negative management of distribution. Products of the first and second line often ended up in the same stores and, as a consequence, they caused a cannibalization phenomenon. An overlapping that caused the dilution of the brand and, therefore, its depreciation. On the other hand, there are a few positive cases, as the that concerns the Armani group, with the second lines Emporio Armani, EA7 and A|X Armani Exchange.
“We are facing a business retail model, characterized by a different and autonomous distribution, which we didn’t see in the other cases”. Then, Saviolo underlines how, in comparison to 30 years ago, the wholesale channel has gone through an extremely visible contraption. For this reason, nowadays, the sale of products from a potential diffusion line would be even more difficult. The only market that could still actually function, assuming it recovers, is represented by China.
Two cases
Another positive example, but of a completely different nature in terms of design, is Moncler Genius. “A different way of watching and that carries a brand new concept of creativity”, as explained by Saviolo who, in addition, cites even Miu Miu. The brand, which started as a new trademark for experimentation inside the Prada group, nowadays has become a brand with more than 1,2 billion euros of revenue (year 2024). Not only: for a long time it has been autonomous and independent thanks to years and years of investments.
Then, we can observe that there are two main categories of situations in which the concept of the second line can actually be applied. Considering super-luxury and brands that propose bags and footwear as core business, is it possible to imagine a second line of Hermès, Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, or Ferragamo? “Let’s not call it second line, but sport line, junior or resort, which can be proposed and sold just in specific markets or distribution contexts”. This is Saviolo’s perspective.
Creativity, finance, production
This consideration becomes more interesting right when it starts to analyze the creative part: who would design the collection of a diffusion line? Without forgetting the financial matter. A great brand, which currently concentrates all of its efforts and resources in order to manage this particular downturn in the market, could be able to invest in the creation of a second line, with brand new stores, marketing, etc. etc? But, the most engaging aspect is absolutely the production one. Saviolo and Tintinelli agree on the fact that the production of a potential second line for the European or American market couldn’t absolutely be Italian. Therefore, no diffusion line will be able to restart the departments of a Western manufacturing industry that is currently in crisis. The only exception could be represented by a second line aimed at distribution in the Chinese market.
A completely different supply chain
“The supply chain of a second line must be different from the one that characterizes the first line, and the goal to make it much more profitable, controlled and sustainable is truly complicated to achieve”, as observed by Tintinelli. The memory immediately flashes to the Italian investigations that revealed the evident gaps of luxury brands in terms of management of their supply chain. Difficulties and a lack of control that will become insurmountable in the event of a second line made in China.
And then, how to dispel the following potential suspicions of consumers that even the first line is not made in China? “That’s why – as stated by Tintinelli – a key element that could revamp the diffusion lines is sustainability. The fashion label could launch a green project in order to experiment with sustainable procedures. In this event the second line (but the definition would be forced) could attract consumers who must, however, be offered a purchase experience comparable to the one of luxury goods.
Experimentation, innovation and sustainability
In conclusion: if in the past the second lines have encountered and ultimately paid distribution errors and perception issues, the future could depend on the ability of combining accessibility and responsibility. Traceable materials, transparent supply chains, purchase experiences in line with the values of luxury. In a market that currently requires brand new stories and authenticity, it won’t be enough offering a label product at the lowest possible price. In this scenario, the winner will be the one who will take advantage of the opportunity to transform the second line into a laboratory for experimentation, innovation and sustainability.
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