The European Union, during next July, launches pivotal measures that will have an impact on the sustainability of the textile and fashion industry. The first one concerns the tax on packages purchased online, especially from China (that, however, needs to be explained well). Secondly, there is the one that regulates the destruction of the unsold. But, in the meantime, Bruxelles compiles the Industrial Acceleration Act, “forgetting” about the fashion industry, as if it considered it as a non-strategic sector
by Massimiliano Viti
From the prohibition against destroying the unsold to the new measures aimed against the invasion of the little Chinese packages, purchased online by the European citizens. However, while Bruxelles is strengthening the regulamentation, the fashion sector appears to remain at the sidelines of industrial policy. Actually, in the brand new Industrial Acceleration Act, the textile and fashion supply chain is – in fact – considered as a non-strategic sector, and this raises concern about its competitive future. In Europe, the sector is composed of 195,000 companies circa that employ 1,3 millions of people and generate over 64 billion euros in export.
Green guidelines
Next July will take effect two pivotal measures that will have a great impact on the sustainability of the textile and fashion industry. From July 1st, will enter into force a flat-rate duty that will sum up to 3 euros for each category of products contained in the packages costing less than 150 euros that are directly shipped to European consumers. This is a provisional measure pending full implementation of the brand European customs data hub, expected in 2028.
After that, the 3 euros temporary duty will be replaced by the normal customs tariffs. Let’s clear up a point of confusion right away. The duty applied by July 1st won’t sum up to 3 euros for each package, but it will amount to 3 euros for each category of product included in the shipping, based on the tariff headings. For instance: if a package contains both a silk and a wool blouse, the duty will add up to 6 euros. (source consilium.europa.eu ).
The invasion of the packages
What is the actual aim of this measure? It is to protect and safeguard European producers and sellers from the invasion of small packages, mostly coming from Asia (including the ones shipped by the most aggressively fast fashion brands, such as Shein or Temu), whose number has doubled every year since 2022. During 2024, the figure was 4,6 billions, with 91% of them coming from China. The income will have positive benefits for the public accounts of Europe and of the Member States. In other words, part of the proceeds will remain to the different States in order to cover the collection costs. There is no shortage of dissenting voices that brand this decision as protectionist and anachronistic. “Fortunately, non-EU platforms are already moving their deposits to Europe, circumventing this absurd measure aimed at undermining customers’ purchase power”, states Massimiliano Dona, president of the Unione Nazionale Consumatori (UNC) (source Sky).
Prohibition of the destruction
On July 19th 2026 will come into force the prohibition of the destruction of unsold clothing items, accessories and footwear. This provision won’t concern small and medium fashion firms, which will be involved into it starting from 2030, but only large companies. In other words, those that meet at least two of the following three criterias. First: to have more than 250 “average annual employees”. Second: to generate a net revenue exceeding 40 million euros. Third: to have total assets on the balance sheet exceeding 20 million euros. Anyone who will dispose, either directly or through third parties, will have to complete the specific European format and publish detailed information regarding the number and the weight of products, reason for disposal, reuse, recycle or recovery rates, and measures taken or planned to prevent destruction.
What can be destroyed
There are cases in which the destruction of unsold products is allowed. For example: safety reasons, damage to the products, the products’ unsuitability for preparation for reuse or for remanufacturing. Or, the unsellability due to violation of intellectual property rights. Finally: the destruction as the option with the least negative impact on the environment (source Ansa). But, the guidelines introduce a general principle effective for all economic operators. It is the “prevention of destruction” requirement, which encourages the adoption of concrete measures in order to reduce, as much as possible, the destruction of unsold products. So, the aim of the regulations is to limit overproduction, by giving value to the virtuosity of small producers.
But fashion is a non-strategic sector
However, the European fashion industry takes center stage even when it’s not actually present. Caused a stir, in fact, its absence from the document titled Industrial Acceleration Act, which aims to increase the manufacturing sector’s share of the EU’s GDP from approximately 14% in 2024 to 20% by 2035. (source Fashion Network). The document still needs to be voted on and adopted by the European Parliament before it can come into force. Therefore, it will be most likely amended. Meanwhile, by focusing, however, on heavy industry, it makes no mention whatsoever of the European fashion industry, effectively considering it as a non-strategic sector.
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