{"id":4979,"date":"2024-10-15T09:04:42","date_gmt":"2024-10-15T07:04:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/magazine.lineapelle-fair.it\/?p=4979"},"modified":"2024-10-16T14:26:00","modified_gmt":"2024-10-16T12:26:00","slug":"the-ruthless-designer-waltz-spares-almost-no-one","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magazine.lineapelle-fair.it\/en\/focus-en\/the-ruthless-designer-waltz-spares-almost-no-one\/","title":{"rendered":"The ruthless designer waltz spares (almost) no one"},"content":{"rendered":"

The latest in order of exit is Kim Jones, who has left Fendi (remaining, however, at the helm of Uomo di Dior, \u201cDior Man\u201d). Before him, a long line of excellent names fell victim to the ruthless designer waltz that is reshuffling the creative cards of luxury. For better or for worse<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

by Domenico Casoria<\/em><\/p>\n

For a few days now, Kim Jones <\/strong>has no longer been the creative director of Donna di Fendi \u201cFendi <\/strong>Woman\u201d. This is not even real news, as there had been so many rumours <\/strong>about her exit from the LVMH-owned brand. Jones is the most recent victim of the ruthless chair waltz <\/strong>that has left illustrious names in the field over the past year. If this phenomenon could be one of the reasons for the current crisis in the fashion system, the \u201cfantacreative\u201d rages on social media, <\/strong>and even the certainties are starting to wobble. A difficult skein to unravel. That is why we have created a detailed map of who is coming and who is going<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

The ruthless designer waltz<\/strong><\/h3>\n

In March, Pierpaolo Piccioli <\/strong>left Valentino<\/strong>‘s creative direction, and from that moment on, fashion entered a treacherous loop<\/strong>. Piccioli had worked for the Roman fashion house for twenty-five years but became creative director in 2016. The news destabilised fans who had become accustomed to metres of chiffon and silk. The chair, however, remained vacant for a very short time. A few weeks later, the maison announced the appointment of Alessandro Michele <\/strong>as the new creative director. Another earthquake, especially since we had not seen a collection by Michele since the end of 2022 when he left Gucci after seven years. The creative, always on the radar, had been given a series of new landings, from Fendi to Chanel. Chanel <\/strong>itself is a central pawn in this long chess game.<\/p>\n

Like a game of chess<\/strong><\/h3>\n

In early June,\u00a0in fact, Virginie Viard <\/strong>stepped down as creative director of the French fashion house. Viard had been appointed in 2019 after the death of Karl Lagerfeld <\/strong>to ferry the brand into safe waters. Attempt, it seems, half-successful. Four months have passed, however, and we still don’t know her replacement. All rumours (and a few moves) have Hedi Slimane<\/strong>, who left Celine <\/strong>during the last fashion week after seven years and after doubling annual sales. In his place, also from Celine, Michael Rider<\/strong> has been appointed, who leaves his role as Senior Brand Creative Director of Polo Ralph Lauren <\/strong>to return to the French brand where he had already worked ten years with Phoebe Philo<\/strong>. But this is not the end of the story.<\/p>\n

Like a massacre game<\/strong><\/h3>\n

From Givenchy<\/strong> – remained dormant for more than a year after Matthew M. Williams<\/strong>‘ departure – came Sarah Burton<\/strong>, after having directed Alexander McQueen <\/strong>for fourteen years. At Missoni<\/strong>, instead, Filippo Grazioli <\/strong>– who left the creative direction after only two years – was succeeded by the veteran Alberto Caliri<\/strong>. While at Blumarine<\/strong>, David Koma <\/strong>replaced Walter Chiapponi<\/strong>, who bid farewell after just one season.<\/p>\n

If Haider Ackermann <\/strong>has arrived from Tom Ford<\/strong>, the \u201cfantacreative\u201d continues to predict the exit of Maria Grazia Chiuri <\/strong>from Dior<\/strong>. John Galliano <\/strong>would return in her place, but Jonathan Anderson <\/strong>(now at Loewe and owner of his own brand) also remains on the list of possible replacements. Not to mention Sabato De Sarno<\/strong>, who is still on the grill at Gucci<\/strong> or Fendi, where Piccioli himself seems to be on his way. In short, the ruthless waltz of the designers looks more and more like a game to the slaughter. Who will be saved?<\/p>\n

Pictured clockwise from left to top: Pierpaolo Piccioli, Virginie Viard, Kim Jones, Sarah Burton, Jonathan Anderson, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Hedi Slimane, Alessandro Michele<\/em><\/p>\n

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