The one between fashion, luxury and art has become a permanent connection capable of redesigning the relationship between the brand and the public. And, among the various reasons – strategic and financial ones – underlying this connection there is one that has little to do with the market in the strict sense: the desire to become eternal
by Massimiliano Viti
The ambition to become eternal is only one of the points of contact between fashion, luxury and art. During the latest years, various brands tried to renew and strengthen the historic connection with art through initiatives, projects and investments. They understood the importance of becoming culturally relevant. In this sense, art is the means that allows them to emphasize their identity, their value, and to create a truly authentic connection with society. A lasting relationship that grants them the opportunity to redesign the bond between the brand and its public.
The ambition to become eternal
The dual relationship between art and luxury is stratified. On the surface level, the first is capable of lending to the second a moral and aesthetic approval, until reaching a legitimacy for its high prices. On a deeper note, art offers luxury a dimension of transcendence, which is needed for overcoming the criteria of distinction strictly based on economic capacity, by introducing cultural and symbolic values. In this way, luxury can attract, retain and build the loyalty of that segment of customers who go beyond the concept of ownership and is able to give value to meaning, experience and authenticity.
A dimension of transcendence
Thanks to the creations designed by the artists, luxury can transform the limited editions into authentic creations, characterized by a defined cultural value. In other words, a bag – for instance – is no longer just a mere instrument aimed at generating hype or increasing the request. The value of the product is no longer exclusively determined by the materials used to make it and the manual skills of those who produce it. Therefore, the time needed to conceive and realize it becomes fundamental. In other words: its own meaning. So, in this way luxury shifts towards a higher and more intangible dimension, in which value is less arguable and more enduring. Similarly, even art benefits from its association with luxury, as fashion essentially amplifies a vision that wouldn’t find the same space in traditional circuits.
Exploring new expressive ways
“Fashion and art are always intertwined, with artists and designers who challenged the limits of their fields and explored brand new expressive ways”, states Federica Carlotto, director of the masters’ program in Luxury Business at the Sotheby’s Institute of Art. “Nowadays, this relationship – highlights Carlotto – is becoming more and more complex and multifaceted, with initiatives realized through new formats, channels and aesthetics. What used to be a stylistic exercise, has now turned into a language of its own. Then, through partnerships and sponsorships with artistic institutes and artists, luxury brands have positioned themselves as cultural agencies, by essentially overcoming their commercial aims. Their cross-sectoral collaborations reflect our way of living and consuming culture: dynamic, versatile and unconventional. As such, they belong to the world of aesthetic economics, which offers products characterized by a high symbolic and creative value”.
Symbolic Capital
In this way, luxury labels try to intercept and satisfy the requests of a public in continuous evolution. We are witnessing a conversion of economic capital into symbolic capital, cultural or social, as theorized by the French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu. It is not enough to “spend money”. Collective recognition is needed, and it often occurs through cultural mediation.
In the picture, taken from media.tiffany.com: Bronze Eroded Tinnay Penny Vessel, creation which dates back to 2021 realized by the artist Daniel Arsham for Tiffany
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