It’s all anyone’s talking about: Chanel and Dior are reigniting fashion. From the heel cover sent down the catwalk by Matthieu Blazy to Jonathan Anderson’s new narrative, the French fashion houses are back in fine form. Lower prices, queues outside the shops and a renewed desire also play a part
by Domenico Casoria
Following Chanel’s first Cruise collection presented in Biarritz on 28 April, social media went into overdrive. The reason? A shell-shaped heel cover, a ‘shoe without a shoe’, presented by Matthieu Blazy and perfectly integrated into a collection inspired by the French coastal town where much of Mademoiselle’s career began. Everyone went wild for a piece that will never go into production, and consequently, never reach the boutiques. Yet it says a lot about the renewed interest surrounding Chanel. But what are the reasons?
Chanel and Dior reignite fashion
First and foremost, the talent of Matthieu Blazy is capable of brushing away that layer of dust that had settled on the brand, allowing fresh air to flow in. Combined with a deep understanding of the codes, brought into the contemporary era without nostalgia. The heel cover served as a signal: Blazy has brought Chanel back to a sense of freshness that had been missing. Biarritz, for him, was key. Coco Chanel had captured the elegance of the French on holiday; Blazy has chosen more contemporary beaches, imagining a youthful wardrobe suited to real life. A move that has reignited desire. Moreover, and this is hardly news now, Chanel is perhaps one of the few brands capable of bringing customers back into the shops.
There are plenty of accounts of long queues outside the boutiques, as well as shelves being raided to snap up this or that reimagined two-tone shoe. Speaking of shoes, incidentally, the fashion house has devised a new pricing strategy: lower than usual, more ‘entry-level’, better suited to the new target audience. Without, however, losing sight of the old, more in line (even financially speaking) with the more expensive products. Indeed, expanding the range. Chanel does not have a menswear line, but online, there is plenty of praise from male users who see Blazy’s direction as a new source of inspiration. A strategy, perhaps, that has never been seen before at Chanel. A brand so well-established that it has given carte blanche to a young creative, without setting any limits.
The recognition
The first quarter of 2026 of the Lyst Index, the ranking that identifies the ‘hottest’ – in short, most desirable – fashion brands and products, has also provided a clear snapshot. Not only has Chanel entered the ranking for the first time, but it has immediately jumped to first place. A feat shared with Dior, the other fashion house now in the spotlight that had never been on the list before and has risen to third place.
The appointments of Blazy and Jonathan Anderson were almost simultaneous and fuelled a specific expectation: to understand how two such different creatives would rewrite the vocabulary of luxury. Following his time at Loewe, Anderson was expected to adopt a more dreamlike approach. Instead, Anderson has infused Dior with references to his Northern Irish roots, to art, to literature, and to the places that shaped the identity of the fashion house’s founder, reinterpreted through new proportions and a more playful tone.
A new style
All of this, once again, is expressed through accessories. Understandably, given that they are what most attract potential new customers. For example, Anderson has focused on handbags, introducing a new bow-shaped design, not to mention the reinterpretation of the iconic Lady Dior or the tote bag, which has returned to the scene in bright colours such as pink and yellow and embellished with literary quotes.
Anderson has also ventured into menswear (Dior has a men’s line), which is now a major online trend thanks to its retro-inspired campaigns. As further proof, the creations from both houses practically dominated the red carpet at the latest Met Gala in New York. And so it seems that Chanel and Dior have returned to speaking the language of desire.
Photos: Chanel and Dior
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