Secondhand, “beloved”, authentic: this is how consumption patterns are changing

Matthieu Blazy makes his debut at Chanel with a series of “battered, crushed and beloved” bags. Fashion shifts the attention towards creative solutions that give actual value to concepts such as durability and authenticity. A phenomenon that is currently reinterpreting the conventions of secondhand and is modifying the usual consumption patterns

by Massimiliano Viti

 

For his debut at Chanel, the creative director Matthieu Blazy unveiled on the runway a series of 2.55 handbags, which appeared to be “battered, crushed and beloved”. The designer explained to the journalists that his aim was to make those handbags look “just as if they had been at a party in Pigalle”. Within the 2026 Fall/Winter collection, Prada showcased garments that showed stains, yellowings and scrapes. But, essentially, what is happening in the luxury fashion industry?” It used to be strictly related to a peculiar concept of perfection, and wearing designer clothes was a symbol of financial prosperity. Nowadays – perhaps – that’s no longer the case.

How consumption patterns are changing

People who regularly shop at flea markets are no longer considered out of fashion, as they were for decades. Nowadays, instead, those people are absolute protagonists in the world of fashion, precisely thanks to the growing popularity of secondhand clothing. Wearing a secondhand garment, such as a worn-out pair of jeans, is not an indicator of poverty, but it distinguishes all the individuals who have the capacity of understanding where fashion is headed right now.

Because purchasing secondhand clothing represents an act of rebellion against compulsive shopping and ultra fast-fashion. It can be considered as a departure from perfection, as if to say: “I don’t want to be beautiful, but interesting”. This means that the consumption patterns are changing as, specifically young people, tend to give more value to durability and authenticity, rather than mere novelty.

The ultimate status symbol

“In addition, we are witnessing a shift away from this constantly displayed novelty. In fact, a worn-out handbag is currently the ultimate status symbol”, as Lisa Anderson, founder of the resale platform PLC (Pre Loved Closet), tells to the South China Morning Post. “A worn-out designer bag conveys something completely different from the clean, brand-new aesthetic that we have all been conditioned to pursue. It carries a peculiar kind of ease and confidence. It essentially tells that this garment lived a satisfying life: it has been purchased to be worn, not just displayed”. Finally, it is crucial to consider how the rise of secondhand has contributed to normalizing the idea that the beauty and the value of a product are not strictly related to its condition of (alleged) perfection.

Decoding luxury

The fact that the buying criteria are changing stands out even in the report Decoding Luxury: The 2025 Consumer Edit, published by Farfetch, based on a survey conducted on 1935 luxury consumers in the United Kingdom. The results highlighted by this report are clear: the consumers tend to give more  value to versatility and durability, and they are more likely to invest in products that can be worn in various occasions and different contexts. Quality, adaptability and design coexist with the emotional bond and personal expression so, in other words, the formula of value. 89% of luxury buyers prioritize versatility when purchasing high-end fashion.

Shoes, bags and accessories dominate luxury wardrobes, as they offer both visibility and practicality. Shoes (47%), bags (42%) and accessories (37%) can enhance and enrich everyday outfits while remaining practical, and they are products that can stand the test of time. 71% of interviewers stated that sustainability influences their purchasing decisions, especially when it is a matter of buying less, but better. Therefore, wardrobes are shrinking. Most of the buyers surveyed own only 2-5 pieces of high-end fashion.

The age of awareness

According to Farfetch, the next chapter of luxury will be characterized by awareness: to prioritize quality, significance and the way clothing items actually fit into real wardrobes. “Luxury-fashion is not losing its appeal, but it is becoming more and more conscious”, as underlined by Doralice Belli, merchandising responsible for the online platform. “Especially for the younger buyers – as she states – luxury is seen as an investment, in which quality, durability and resale potential are as worth as the design.

At the same time, the older consumers still continue to give a strong emotional value to luxury, by choosing clothing items that have a personal meaning or reflect long-lasting preferences. Overall – concludes Farfetch’s merchandising manager – we foresee a future in which luxury wardrobes will likely be more curated and personal. Consumers are currently creating more functional and durable collections that are even aimed to harmoniously reflect their lifestyle and personal style”.

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