At the Centrale Montemartini the “Moda in Luce 1955-1975” exhibition celebrates the golden twenty-year period during which Rome became the world capital of style. A journey through cinema, haute couture and industrial innovation, in which the masterpieces designed by Valentino, Capucci and Fendi meet the timeless legend of Hollywood divas, right on the Tiber
by Domenico Casoria
There was a precise moment in which Rome wasn’t just considered the cradle of history, but the midpoint of contemporary fashion. A truly unique period during which the rustle of silk on the marble floors of Via Veneto grand hotels mingled with the roar of the engines driving the reconstruction efforts and the hum of Cinecittà’s movie cameras. In order to relive the magical sensations of that miracle, Centrale Montemartini hosts, through November 15, the exhibition curated by Fabiana Giacomotti. The exhibition represents the second stage of the path started last year at Palazzo Pitti. But, if the Florence occasion aimed at examining the origins and the first steps of Made in Italy, this brand new Roman phase celebrates its global recognition.
Moda in Luce 1955-1975
Stepping through the doors of the Centrale, the design, executed with geometric precision yet softened by touches of theatrical maximalism, immediately evokes the sensations of a time machine. The exhibition truly showcases a proper postcard. It seems to be portraying the atmosphere of a city that, having overcome the negative consequences of conflicts and the era of Neorealism, chose to reinvent itself through beauty, the ever-lasting craftsmanship of its workshops, and pioneering industrial vision.
The Luce Historical Archive
The narrative cornerstone of the whole exhibition is based on the visual “corpus” of the Luce Historical Archive, a collection composed of 150 vintage photographs and precious archival footage that brings to life the vibrant daily life of those years. Not just the glamour of camera flashes and prime-time TV, but even the meticulous behind the scenes work. The hands of the embroiderers, the laboratory discussions, the creation of a fabric. Those were the years when the Italian chemical industry was revolutionizing fashion with synthetic fibers such as nylon and terital, allowing their creativity to experiment with previously unthinkable styles and shapes.
Roman glamour through dresses
In any case, the journey unfolds between image and matter. In fact, 27 original dresses are
showcased in the various rooms. For example, we move from the geometric shapes of Roberto Capucci to a wool gabardine cloak from Valentino Garavani’s early collections (haute couture spring/summer 1968), via an astrakhan coat designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi fall/winter 1973-1974 collection, alongside creations from true style icons such as the Fontana Sisters, Federico Forquet, Renato Balestra, Simonetta Visconti Colonna di Cesarò, Fernanda Gattinoni or Angelo Litrico and Caraceni. Exceptional pieces that are not only coming from major historical and museum archives such as, for example, the Mantero or Taroni silk factories or the Ludovisi Boncompagni Museum, but even from exclusive and private collections, such as the one of the costumer Massimo Cantini Parrini.
Hollywood on the Tiber
The exhibition is able to explore and narrate the extraordinary connection between fabric and the big screen. It was precisely during those years that Rome became “Hollywood on the Tiber”. It hosted great American productions and it was able as well to materialize and dress the dreams of a whole generation. The images evoke the magnificent ghosts of Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Silvana Mangano or Anita Ekberg. Not mere testimonials, but true divas and trusted friends of Roman tailors. So, no nostalgic celebration of the past. Much more; a cultural overview of the evolution of Italian style. The result of a unique convergence in which the most refined craftsmanship has merged with industrial boldness and the imagination of cinema. Fifty years later, it continues to show people not only how to dress, but how to live surrounded by beauty.
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