Press, socials and influencers are betting on the return of the hat as a distinctive fashion element after seeing all kinds of them – especially oversize ones – during the latest international runway shows. But, for the insiders it could be, for the umpteenth time, a matter of marketing. Let’s figure out hats and their shocking comeback.
by Massimiliano Viti
In Austin, Texas, the cowboy hat is much more than a mere accessory: it is an institution and it represents a part of the city’s identity. As a matter of fact, it became the symbol of the F1 Grand Prix, with a monumental installation that reproduces a giant version of it, 23 metres long, held by a glass fiber structure and designed to become a brand new tourist attraction. This project follows up on an initiative from last year, when the Grand Prix organizers encouraged the spectators to wear cowboy hats during Saturday’s qualifying session, for the so-called “Haturday” (portmanteau of “hat” and “Saturday”). The completion of this structure has a perfect timing in relation to the latest fashion trends regarding oversize hats.
Eccentric, extravagant
An easy example? The straw hat shown off at the beach by the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle. An extra large design that breaks away from traditional proportions, in order to become the protagonist of the whole look. So, the accessory doesn’t merely complete the outfit, but it determines its identity, by bringing togetherspectacularity, personality and pursuit of visibility. The hat perfectly fulfills these functions and, especially in the era of social media, the luxury brands know it very well. If, on the runway, the model is showing off an extravagant hat, there is a better chance that her picture will go viral, triggering the algorithm. This, of course, becomes a driving force for the brand. This explains, at least partly, the wave of eccentric hats that we saw during the latest fashion weeks, with the runways truly transformed into a scene straight out of Royal Ascot.
Hats and their shocking comeback
Even Loro Piana, whose defining strong points are aesthetic precision based on functional elegance and the absence of ostentation (as underlined by Nss Magazine), decided to include in its collection a hat that appears to be more extravagant than its usual standards, which then became a sort of signature item. During the latest cycle of international fashion weeks, at least twenty brands displayed a bizarre hat. And, note: not just for women. All of this led the fashion industry’s glossy magazine to run headlines about the return of the hat. A comeback that, actually, appears to be more virtual than anything: it always seems like it’s about to happen but, in the end, it never really does.
A marketing instrument
“The hat has always been there and it will always be”, explains Marco Antinori, a 33 years old management engineer who took over his father’s business and now runs the Complit Hat Factory in Montappone, in the province of Fermo. We are in a small town in the Marche region, which serves as a hub for an entire district specializing in hat production: the most important in Italy. Antinori believes that the “bizarre” hats that we have seen on the runway are unlikely to have real commercial success.
Invest in experts
In other words, they just serve as a marketing instrument for brands. “Luxury griffes have always been interested in them as hats actually complete the outfit – observes Antinori -. For some brands headwear is particularly important, while less for others. The true revamp of the hat will happen when brands will start to invest in experts and prepared people, as the whole supply chain needs to have much more preparation (starting from who designs, through who produces and, finally, to who is responsible for selling it).
Culture and climate
Antinori focuses on two key factors in the spread of the hat. First: culture. Second: climate. For instance, in Italy the culture of the hat is not so relevant, and that’s why we see so few of them on the streets, especially in contrast with the 1980s, when this accessory was essential. Nowadays, the most widespread models are caps with a front brim – baseball caps, so to speak. Overseas, the hat is much more popular, instead. And this is also due to the weather. “The colder it is, the more of them you see. Therefore, in general, global warming is not good for the industry. Theoretically, more straw hats should be sold, but people are more used to protecting themselves from the cold than from the heat”, states Antinori.
Models and materials
“The side cap and the pillbox are currently very popular models – concludes Antinori – as they’re worn even on more casual occasions. In winter, they’re usually made of wool or felt. In summer, you can choose from a wide variety of materials. Leather? A classic leather fedora is truly beautiful. Leather matches really well with bags and shoes and, for this reason, it is not only used for trim, but also to make the entire product”.
Photo by Thom Browne and Vivienne Westwood
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