It is one of the crafts that contribute to defining the identity of Italian luxury, but it often remains hidden. Among new technologies, the challenges of generational change and the transformations of the market, the embroidery sector needs to reinvent its own future. Together with Loreto di Rienzo, coordinator of Assoricamatori, we try to understand what challenges the supply chain awaits.
by Domenico Casoria
Behind the beauty of a high fashion item or a luxury piece of furniture there’s a whole heritage which weaves together tailoring sensibility, technological research and creative vision. A manufacturing excellence that ranges from large industrial districts to artisanal crafts, yet often remains largely unseen by the general public. Assoricamatori was specifically born to give value and safeguard this supply chain. What are, nowadays, the challenges facing Italian embroidery, split between tradition and innovation?
The unspoken value
“Italy was one of the first countries in the world to make use of industrial embroidery machines, and it was the guideline for every successive evolution”, as underlined by Loreto dei Rienzo, coordinator of the association. “Alongside industry there has always been a strong craftsmanship culture, with traditions that are still alive in Abruzzo, Assisi or Burano. But a feel for embroidery begins with manual dexterity: even though machines do almost everything today, the embroiderer’s input and sensitivity remain the true hallmark of Italian craftsmanship”.
A delicate art
So, it’s easy to realize how deep and extraordinarily delicate this form of art is, as it can transform a simple piece of fabric into a tangible work of art or rare precision, where the lightness of the artisan’s touch meets the designer’s vision. A valuable balance that requires time, patience and an aesthetic insight that is not always reproducible.
The challenges facing Italian embroidery
A heritage of inestimable value that was in danger of remaining fragmented and little known outside the circle of designers. For this reason, two years ago, from an idea shared by eight founders, Assoricamatori was founded. Nowadays, the association has about twenty members, selected according to a strict code of ethics based on compliance with regulations and the company’s long history.
Beyond the act of selling
“We are doing something that goes beyond the mere act of selling, by creating an unspoken value that can actually make a difference”, as stated by Di Rienzo. The companies in the supply chain, mostly small businesses between 15 and 20 employees, are facing articulate and complex challenges. These range from the necessity to train and attract young programmers, key figures capable of merging technique and creativity in order to interpret the designers’ requests, to the management of new technologies.
The AI push
“Nowadays, embroidery is digital, so AI can handle everything related to archiving and distribution; the difference lies in the approach: if you have a deep understanding of the subject and a broad knowledge base, you can make the most of it. We need to customize AI in order to adapt it to our culture, with the aim of registering and preserving our craftsmanship. The risk, for the younger generation, is to fall trap to a logic of simplification”, observes Di Rienzo. Then, he underlines how the theme of customization is by now fundamental in order to deal with market needs and to oppose the issue of unsold items.
A matter of in-depth analysis
A change of perspective that concerns even the designing of a certain product: the aim is not to create mere seasonal collections, but to develop long term in-depth analysis and research studies that can generate value and be reused in time. In addition to this, there are cost pressures, bureaucratic red tape and market uncertainties, which lead various embroiderers towards mergers or acquisitions by major luxury groups. These choices offer safety and management, but they risk curbing the creative spirit and risk-taking attitude typical of small business owners.
Awareness of the expertise
And we can’t forget to recognize the work done. “When you buy a certain piece of clothing, the person behind the embroidery is invisible. Brands don’t usually say who realized it. So, we need to raise awareness of the expertise, know-how and skills that are truly hidden behind it”. Making its debut this year at Lineapelle Milano (15/17 September 2026), the association shows how the whole sector is breaking new grounds.
The place it deserves
A little-known sector, but with strong roots in various districts of Tuscany, Veneto, Marche and Lombardy, and capable of an extraordinary versatility. From decorative embroidery to the functional one (as paddings and supports), from automotive to furniture, which can be finely embroidered by integrating the traditional manufacturing with printing, lasers and heat sealing. And when the simple “made in Italy” label is no longer enough as a guarantee, the real answer lies in the cultural and systemic value of manufacturing. “Italians can embroider everything, any kind of object”, concludes Di Rienzo.
Read also: