Or at least, to try to be. Studies, research, and debate delve into the definitions of durability and lifespan to try to understand how to convince brands and consumers to shift their production and consumption paradigm. Perhaps, above all, it is a cultural question.
by Massimiliano Viti
Many wardrobes contain an indestructible cashmere jumper or leather biker jacket, worn countless times yet still fitting perfectly and seemingly never ageing. Alongside them is the T-shirt bought at a concert by your favourite band or the pair of trousers purchased during an unforgettable holiday. In the first case, the garment continues to be worn because it has physical durability – that is, it retains its functionality over time without deteriorating. In the second case, the garment has emotional durability: we’ve become so attached to it that we love wearing it. The combination of these two factors – physical and emotional – is a source of sustainability, because it extends the life of a fashion item, keeping it out of landfill.
There is durability and lifespan
That is why, today, we increasingly hear durability referred to as a fundamental requirement for a product to be considered sustainable. Let’s clear up any confusion: durability is not synonymous with lifespan; durability is a garment’s physical ability to withstand wear and tear, whilst lifespan refers to how long a garment remains in the wardrobe. A few years ago, the concept of durability came to the fore to counter the rise of fast fashion and to explain how spending little on a poor-quality product often turns out not to be a bargain.
Cost per use
In fact, we need to assess the cost per use. Thus, a pair of trousers costing 20 euros and worn five times (therefore costing 4 euros per use) actually costs more than a pair costing 100 euros but worn 30 times (3.33 euros per use). Now, in addition to the purely economic aspect, we talk about durability to emphasise the environmental benefits. If all products were highly durable, landfill sites would not be overflowing with waste. A few years ago, a social media campaign was also launched with the hashtag ‘100wears’, conveying the message that if we use what we buy at least 100 times, then we are making a good purchase for the planet too.
An essential requirement
A report published in February 2026 by WRAP (Waste and Resources Action Programme), a non-profit organisation specialising in the circular economy, entitled ‘Durability: the foundation for circularity’, states that durability is increasingly becoming an essential requirement. Rather than simply an added value. This same concept has since gained greater significance with new European sustainability regulations, such as the Ecodesign Regulation (ESPR) and the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) Regulation. Which reward durable and repairable products.
The study
Empirical assessments compiled by ScienceDirect show that the environmental impact of the fashion industry is determined more by the short lifespan of garments than by inefficiencies in production. Empirical analyses show that, whilst global clothing production has doubled over the last two decades, the average number of times a garment is worn has fallen by 30–40 per cent. Leading to a sharp increase in the environmental impact per use and premature entry into end-of-life streams. Extending the use of a garment by as little as three months reduces its carbon, water and waste impacts by 5–10 per cent. Whilst longer extensions can reduce the impact per use by up to 30 per cent.
A commercial advantage
Consumers are also demanding durable products, against a backdrop of rising living costs. In a recent survey conducted in five of Zalando’s key markets (Germany, France, Italy, Sweden and the UK) and summarised by the Sourcing Journal, ‘value for money’ topped the list of factors influencing purchasing decisions, whilst ‘durability of the material or item’ came third. Design, materialquality, and craftsmanshipare the elementswe must consider when looking for a product that will stand the test of time. But convincing brands that there is a commercial advantage in producing garments that customers want to keep for a long time is rather complicated. The phrase ‘don’t worry about the money, you’re saving the planet’ isn’t very convincing. This is why WRAP would like to see a garment durability label (based on the number of washes the garment can withstand?) that could add value in the second-hand market.
Watch out for durability
Meanwhile, the EU’s Joint Research Centre, which is preparing technical studies for the specific EPR measure for textile products, has found that the lifespan of a garment is not determined solely by its deterioration (source: Milano Unica). More often, it is determined by aesthetic obsolescence (the garment goes out of fashion). In changes in fit (size) or in the wearer’s lifestyle, or simply by the consumer’s need to refresh their wardrobe and wear new garments. Creating products that withstand fifty washes but are worn only five times is harmful. We must therefore also focus on the garment’s fit and the quality of the materials used, such as silk, cashmere and leather. Which create a deeper connection with the wearer.
Spend more to spend less?
Do you always have to spend more to buy a quality product? Generally speaking, yes, but not always. In some cases, higher quality does not equate to greater durability. A study funded by Primark concluded that price cannot be used to predict the physical durability of a garment. In any case, we would add that if you don’t want to take any risks, it’s better to buy a pair of shoes, a bag or a jacket made by a craftsman or produced by a brand whose high quality is guaranteed. Even just checking the label to understand the materials used. Favouring those that are more durable and capable, as mentioned earlier, of creating an emotional bond with the wearer. A further advantage is that you have purchased a product made by a supply chain free from child labour and exploited workers.
Photo Shutterstock
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