It seems to be a provocative exercise, while it is a meticulous strategy instead. Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga, has launched on the market a series of objects that many would define as hogwash, but that over the years have become fetishes and symbols to be worn. Why does he do it?
by Domenico Casoria
What it may appear as a provocative exercise, is instead a done-and-done strategy. We are talking about Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga, who since 2015, right as he took office, has proposed on the market a series of objects that many would consider just as hogwash. But, over the years, these have become fetishes to be owned, symbols to be worn, relief valves for those who ferociously scream: “What happened to the Balenciaga of the Fifties?”.
Balenciaga’s strategy
In order (we won’t list them all because there are too many), Demna has launched a handbag shaped like a plastic potato chips bag, a towel-skirt for the modest sum of $1000 that has instantly gone sold-out (how many will they have produced?) and a bracelet obtained from a roll of tape. To end up, a few weeks ago, Zero Shoes was launched, a shoe that is only composed of its sole, without any upper that to cover the foot. Is this a clever expedient in order to draw attention or an attempt to explore the renewed desire to establish a contact with nature? Who knows. But, it is clear that Demna has chosen a precise strategy, that more or less recalls the one of the famous Chinese general and philosopher Sun Tzu, author of “The art of war”. We will explain why in seven points.
Point 1
Far from wanting to use improper terms, the strategy undertaken by Demna is a planning that recalls military tactics.
First: Only engage in battles that can be won, which means, more or less, we see what is currently on the market and try to come up with something different. It must be said that in 2015, when Demna arrived in Balenciaga, creativity was the bread and butter, but a few cracks were already showing. Just look at where we are right now. To compose the shortlist of designers that surely didn’t take shelter into basic khaki turtleneck sweaters, there were Alessandro Michele and his revolutionary Gucci, John Galliano who was reappearing on the scene, Maria Grazia Chiuri who impressed a feminist lashing to Dior, leaving Valentino flawed. So, there was a clear overcrowding and Demna – who with his personal style has over the years revolutionized the brand founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga, by exaggerating (although keeping them) the traditional shapes – has figured out where to squeeze in.
Point 2
Second: the supreme art of war is to win without fighting. For this you only need to see the hype that the products of Balenciaga still generate on social media platforms. It is a job that others do. The ones that are attached to socials are responsible for starting the media fight. The ones who scream with indignation “What is that? But the real problems?”. Balenciaga observes them and collects money.
Point 3
Third: choose carefully the most appropriate time to operate. Essentially in line with every period of lull in fashion, Demna skillfully pulls something out of a hat. The Zero Shoes, low and with EVA 3D extra-light soles, come right in the middle of a period of extreme crisis for the fashion system. Creativity at an all-time low and a complete platitude. And then, out of nowhere, appear these unwearable paradox-shoes that reignite the debate.
Point 4
Fourth: Plan your actions strategically. This could be the only deviation that doesn’t confirm the rule. We all remember the ferocious critics pointed towards Balenciaga because of the campaign that showed children holding teddy bears in bondage gears. Uprisings from associations and insiders. The scandal ended with the apologies of the maison, of the stylists and even of Demna. But are we sure that it was just an error? At certain levels, things don’t usually just slip away.
Point 5
Fifth: Change is a source of opportunity. It seems like a paradox. We cannot say that Demna hasn’t got us used to change. Thinking about it, his way of perceiving fashion has evolved over the years. From being strongly influenced, as a young designer, by the brutalism of Georgia, his home country, Demna has been able to adapt himself, by building narrations that led the observer to reflect on the main objects that characterize capitalism (a broken i-Phone, for example). Objects with which he didn’t grow up and that culturally didn’t belong to him, as he came from a former Soviet republic.
Point 6
Sixth: know your strengths and weaknesses. During his ten years as the creative director, Demna has been able to create his own space, his clique of celebrities and his share of audience. It isn’t clearly the most important brand of Kering and it won’t become so anytime soon. But this strategy has paid off, as it has been able to incorporate all the codes that characterize Balenciaga.
Demna has always been sure that his concept of fashion wouldn’t hit the mark for Balenciaga, especially because of his complexity in terms of portability, just for a few people. So, he played offensively. He created an atmosphere, and he has been able to accomplish something that few had done before. He gave back to clothes (and to accessories) the impactful role of social criticisms that has always characterized them. Starting from the condemnation of the Russian attack towards Ukraine, to a much more generalized critic that concerns the fashion system.
Point 7
Seventh: choose carefully your generals and lead them to victory. Demna’s husband, Loïk Gomez, better known as BFRND, is the author of the soundtracks that, during the runway shows, build up perfectly the dystopian imaginary of Balenciaga. Lotta Volkova, the currently most successful stylist – responsible, in part, even of the success of Miu Miu – is a close friend of his, and has always been collaborating with him. So, a union of intents that has transformed Balenciaga into the brand we know today.
Conclusions
At the end of it all, one wonders if all of this has actually worked. As Demna has experienced real storms, has been on the verge of catastrophe, but he is still there, for almost a decade. Considering the contradictory round of designations underway for months, we are talking about almost a geological era. So, at least for now, the answer is yes.
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