The women’s fashion shows in Milan, scheduled from 17 to 23 September, update their formula but lose their tutelary deity. For this edition, in fact, Giorgio Armani does not parade, preferring – for a very specific reason – New York, and makes way for a calendar composed of 173 events, with some excellent returns and important debuts
by Massimiliano Viti
Milan Fashion Week: half a day more for women’s fashion, but one Armani less. And to think that it was King Giorgio himself, last January, who had asked the CNMI – (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) National Chamber for Italian Fashion both to extend the calendar, to dilute a programme that had become too crowded, and to strengthen the last day, the one that traditionally saw the Armani brand as the protagonist. Well, Milan Fashion Week will indeed be more extended, but without Armani.
A more extended Fashion Week, but without Armani
The shows will start at 3 p.m. on Tuesday, 17 September, with Fendi, but the last big name on the calendar is Bottega Veneta (at 8 p.m. on Saturday, 21). No big names are present on the second and third day. No one has taken the place of Giorgio Armani, who will be back in Milan – so he has promised – in February 2025. But why did King Giorgio leave (temporarily) Milan? The company explained that it will present the world premiere of the women’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection in New York in conjunction with the opening of its new building at 760 Madison Avenue, scheduled for 17 October. This event marks the brand’s return to the Big Apple after 11 years. Armani Group will still be present in Milan with two Emporio Armani fashion shows.
Milan on the catwalk
This edition of Milan Fashion Week is dedicated to women’s collections. One hundred seventy-three appointments are scheduled: 57 physical and 8 digital fashion shows, 69 presentations, six presentations by appointment and 33 events. Returning to the calendar are the fashion shows of The Attico and Laura Biagiotti, while 20 new brands will make their debut on the presentation ‘board’. For example, Susan Fang (supported by Dolce & Gabbana), Federico Cina (supported by Camera Moda Fashion Trust), Chiccomao and Phan Dang Hoang will be present for the first time.
Digital closure
The last day, 23 September, will instead be dedicated to online presentations, from Defaience by Nicola Bacchilega to Francesco Murano to Jacob Cohën, Rè Shui, and Viapiave33. Expectations are also high for Francesca Murri, who will present her first collection for Fiorucci at the Milan Triennale and anticipates the exhibition that will pay homage to the Milanese creative artist in the autumn.
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