The latest frontier for fashion and luxury is India, which, with its 1.5 billion inhabitants, is the most populous country in the world but also the one – perhaps – most at the mercy of profound contradictions. In spite of a still conservative approach to consumption, the volumes it could guarantee are, however, so tempting that designer labels are planning different ways of approaching its market. Starting with Dior and Prada
by Domenico Casoria
Since China stopped buying luxury goods, fashion and luxury have decided to focus on the nearest market: India. With its 1.5 billion inhabitants, it is the most populous country in the world, and that is why everyone wants to set foot there. From Dior, which has brought its autumn-winter 2023 show to Mumbai, to Prada, which recently closed a deal with Snapchat to customise two avatars of the famous multimedia messaging app, of which India is the leading market with 200 million monthly active users.
The same idea of luxury?
The Indian market is undoubtedly attractive (it is currently the fifth largest economy in the world), but the demographic trend is changing significantly, with the middle class rising sharply from 29% of the population today to 44% by 2030. However, luxury brands have a tough challenge ahead of them. Indian consumers still tend towards conservatism when it comes to luxury goods, preferring watches and jewellery over goods such as handbags and accessories that are not considered safe purchases. The idea of luxury is also accompanied by a difference in style in that (aspirational) segment of the population: minimised logos, marked designs and vivid colours.
How Dior tries
It goes without saying that the arrival of luxury brands in India is still experimental. In 2023, for instance, Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior‘s women’s division, presented her autumn-winter collection in Mumbai. This was not the first time the brand paid homage to the Asian nation. In 1996, the then-creative director Gianfranco Ferrè created Passione Indiana for the haute couture collection. Chiuri was also inspired by Indian codes, focusing on colourful silks and straight evening coats inspired by the sari, the traditional dress, made together with embroiderers from the Chanakya School Of Craft in Mumbai. A few years ago, however, it was Louis Vuitton’s turn with an exclusive collection of shoes in the colour Rani Pink, a symbol of royalty and decorated with small precious stones.
How Prada plays it
The largest segment of the Indian population is Gen Z, who, as with the idea of luxury, have a different approach to social media. Prada and Miu Miu, for example, have collaborated with Snapchat to develop a new tool. Snapchatters, in fact, will be given access to a selection of looks from the two brands to customise their Bitmoji avatars. At a cost of $50, users will be able to grab a luxury outfit.
The weak point
There is, however, a pitfall in the (still weak) relationship between fashion brands and India. All projects start, in fact, from a Eurocentric or, at best, Western point of view, which keeps out – in the creative phase – precisely the Indian perspective. This increases the perception of truthfulness, which, especially in young people today, is a fundamental aspect of building a relationship that is not only based on commercial ends. The risk, once again, is that the one towards India seems just a blind conquest. Or a flag to be placed.
Read also: