Deadstock is taking the fashion world. For fabrics, leathers and other materials sitting in warehouses – and often difficult to sell – a new opportunity for a revival is opening up, more so than ever before. They are attracting a growing number of independent brands, which are reviving them in countless ways and bringing them to the catwalk. Will deadstock be more than just a passing trend?
by Massimiliano Viti
Whether for budgetary reasons and to reduce the value of stock, out of a strong commitment to sustainability, or to comply with new European regulations prohibiting the destruction of unsold goods. Add to all this a dash of marketing (which enhances every project) and suddenly, surplus stock takes centre stage on the catwalks. This is what is known as ‘deadstock’ (literally ‘dead stock’ or ‘dead goods’). Fabrics, leathers and other unused materials, sitting idle in warehouses and often difficult to sell, are attracting a growing number of independent brands. Why?
Deadstock is taking the fashion world
Among those who have embraced deadstock are famous fashion designers, young emerging designers, brands and start-ups. Indeed, as demand has risen, so too has supply, primarily from major luxury groups but also from smaller players. Thus, deadstock is becoming an alternative source of raw materials and, at the same time, an excellent way to reduce waste and adopt a more circular fashion model. For instance, the most recent example is that of Kris Van Assche, the Belgian designer who decided to relaunch his eponymous brand in September 2026, after a hiatus of 11 years. His new collectionis made exclusively from deadstock materials, a choice that results in more limited quantities but lends the garments an aura of rarity.
Buy the exact quantity
Speaking to WWD, Van Assche explained that he had no difficulty finding high-quality, dormant raw materials. “The advantage is that I can buy exactly the quantity I need. I don’t create new fabric stock, which, of course, is very positive for the structure of my business. What’s more, I have immediate access to the materials; I don’t have to wait,” the designer explained.
One of the first
Uruguayan designer Gabriela Hearst was one of the first to adopt and promote the use of waste materials. For her Spring/Summer 2026 collection, she stated that 90 per cent of the materials used came from her own stock surplus. “The aim was to show the big brands that this is possible,” said the designer at the fifth Eco-Conscious Living Summit, held in April 2026 in New York.
Denim, Valut, Vintage
Similarly, designer Marine Serre also frequently works with upcycled, deadstock and recycled fabrics, as does Kevin Germanier. In fact, in his Spring 2026 Haute Couture collection, presented last May at the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen, the Swiss designer showcased a dark denim suit adorned with appliqués made from Coca-Cola cans cut into slices. The denim, meanwhile, came from LVMH’s surplus stock, via its subsidiary Nona Source. Still remaining within the luxury sector, it is worth mentioning the Gucci Continuum initiative, which originated within the Gucci Vault concept space. Launched in 2023, its first collection – designed by 11 creatives – was crafted from surplus Gucci fabrics and pieces from the past. Also in 2023, moving beyond high fashion, Dr Martens launched the ‘Made in England Deadstock’ line, a collection of shoes made from surplus stock. Currently, there are no products available on the official website.
The vision of emerging designers
Just like the big brands, there is a host of young, emerging designers whose labels were founded on the deadstock philosophy. Among them is Florania. Speaking to Mediaset, the brand’s founder and creative director, Flora Rabitti, explains the creative process. “First, we source deadstock materials and yarns from the luxury sector. Then, building on what’s already there, the collection takes shape.” The opposite of how it’s usually done. In her Spring/Summer 2027 collection, called Surfacing, deadstock leather is airbrushed, etched, cut open and reassembled.
A question of platforms
To capitalise on the deadstock trend, the world’s largest luxury group launched Nona Source, an online resale platform for the recovery of materials (primarily fabrics and leathers) from the warehouses of the various brands it owns. That was in 2021, but three years earlier, Adapta – a French company specialising in the resale of leathers from the stocks of fashion houses and tanneries – had already been launched. In 2023, Adapta evolved by launching the circular brand Itera, which creates products using dormant French leathers. In the years that followed, other platforms emerged that fulfil the same function as Adapta and Nona Source. For example, Nevold, an independent company created by Chanel in 2025 (whose name is a fusion of ‘never old’), focused on circular fashion and the recycling of luxury materials.
An Italian example
Among the various active initiatives is Zerow, based in Scandicci (Florence). Its co-founder and CEO, Gabriele Rorandelli, explains to Nss Magazine how “deadstock allows us to create small collections using high-quality materials at more affordable prices. Small brands offer speed and traceability”, citing the example of the German brands Haderlump, SF10G and Nowrubi, which work with recycled materials. Regarding the new European legislation prohibiting the destruction of unsold stock, Rorandelli comments: “Larger companies are feeling more pressure. My clients, on the other hand, are very happy.
Much greater support
Today they have much greater support in finding the materials they’re looking for.” It is no coincidence that Vas Assche also said he had no trouble sourcing deadstock materials. Will this still be the case even if there were to be a new boom in luxury production volumes in the future, as happened in the two years following the pandemic?
Photos by Kris Van Assche, Germanier and Florania
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