Many have crowned Chanel’s Cap Heel sandal as the ‘freaky shoe’ of 2026. The shoe-that-isn’t-a-shoe, seen in the Cruise 2027 collection, is simply a heel cover shaped like a stud that ties around the ankle with a strap. No sole. Beyond Matthieu Blazy’s creative interpretation, this design is merely the latest in a gallery of designs that are, to say the least, extravagant – which we’ll be exploring in this article
by Massimiliano Viti
Let’s start with the 1990s. That is, when the ‘ugly chic’ revolution hit the fashion world, embraced even by Miuccia Prada. “Ugliness is attractive, ugliness is exciting,” says Miuccia, who goes on to explain: “Perhaps because it’s newer. For me, the pursuit of uglinessis more interesting than the bourgeois idea of beauty. And why? Because ugliness is human. It taps into the dark and dirty side of people’ (source: harpersbazaar.com).
Ugliness is exciting?
So, throughout history, there have been quite a few instances of footwear which– once they hit the market – were dismissed for their appearance. Only to go on to enjoy unexpected commercial success. An example? Crocs, which the Daily Mail in 2010 described as ‘the ugliest shoes ever invented’. The ‘ugly’ trend, expressed as a form of ‘unlikely creativity’, has never gone out of fashion and has taken the footwear world by storm, even more so than the clothing industry. The rise of social media, of course, has amplified the trend.
Chanel’s Cap Heel
I wonder if Matthieu Blazy, Chanel’s creative director, designed the Cap Heel – a simple, stud-shaped heel cover that tie saround the ankle with a strap – to generate hype on social media, in the hope of achieving commercial success aswell. Whilst we wait to see what the future holds, actress Margaret Qualley, the brand’s ambassador, wore the much-discussed sandal at the London premiere of the film “The Dog Stars” in August 2026. According to NSS Magazine, the Cap Heel adheres to Chanel’s ‘code’ for two-tone shoes (one colour being the wearer’s skintone) and also evokes history, given that nobles used to deliberately wear impractical clothes to demonstrate that they did not need to work. Indeed, anyone wearing these sole-less shoes certainly cannot get about town.
Followed by Saint Laurent
The Cap Heel is not the only extravagant design of 2026. Chanel was followed by Saint Laurent with its transparent PVC brogues. Meanwhile, the Lyst platform, in its second-quarter 2026 report, mentions Chloé’s Jelly Mules – plastic sabots with a trompe-l’oeil bow on the upper – which, in the ice-blue version, resemble Cinderella’s glass slippers.
The latest extravagance is here
Why are these extravagant shoes so popular? “At a time when personal style increasingly resembles an optimised performance,” explains J’Nae Phillips, creator of the Fashion Tingz newsletter, “an unusual shoe can be a sign of individuality, humour, good taste or evena refusal to dress in an overly predictable way” (source: BBC).According to Meg Palmer, a researcher at the Verve agency, “in an era of mediocrity generated by artificial intelligence, perfectly curated Instagram feeds and predictable algorithms, these shoes offer a counterpoint to the supposed perfection we see online” (source: BBC)
Unusual, yetsuccessful: 5 examples
In the history of footwear, there are at least five shoe designs that appeared on the catwalk as a provocation, only to go on to become bestsellers.
Maison Margiela’s Tabi
They are undoubtedly the standout model in the ‘freakyshoes’ category. Martin Margiela unveiled them in 1988. They are inspired by 15th-century Japanese socks, which separated the big toe from the othertoes, based on the belief that they could prevent illness and combat stress. The socks fit perfectly with the traditional zoori (or zori) thong sandals worn under the kimono. Over the years, the bizarre silhouette hasbecome a symbol of anti-fashion, now more popular than ever. A pair dating from 1991 was sold at auction in July 2026 for 364,000 euros.
Celine’sFurSlippers
Itwas Phoebe Philo who designed a number of fur-trimmed shoes. Among these, the most successful model was the slipper launched in 2013. It made its debut on the catwalk, blurring the line between a slipper and a day shoe. The fur-trimmed slippers (as well as the fur-trimmed court shoes) are among Celine’s iconic pieces that influenced footwear fashion in the years that followed.
Jelly Shoes
It was Sarraizienne who created the first model in transparent plastic. Its purpose? To protect the foot from water. In 1980, Tony Alano, a Brazilian in his twenties, and Nicolas Guillon, a Frenchman, relaunched it in Parisian shops. The shoe caught the attention of Thierry Mugler and Jean-Paul Gaultier, who began to reinterpret it, sparking the jelly shoe trend that took the 1980s by storm. Since then, the craze has flared up again periodically, fuelled by designer labels. For example: The Row, Chloé, Loewe.
Balenciaga’s Triple S
Launched under the creative direction of Demna Gvasalia, they appeared on the catwalk during the 2017–2018 winter collection show. They immediately became the ultimate symbol of the ‘ugly chic’ aesthetic, characterised by a chunky sole with three over lapping layers (hence the name Triple S), a deliberately bulky silhouette, raw materials and a factory-distressed effect. The Triple S drew its aesthetic from the clunky trainers of the 1990s, transforming them into a status symbol and officially kick-starting the chunky trainer trend.
Vibram’s Finger Shoes
Innovative, versatile and designed to replicate the sensation of walking and running barefoot, these shoes keep the toes separate, taking the concept of footwear moulded to the foot’s anatomy to the extreme. The first prototypes date back to 2000, whilst Vibram’s official market launch took place in 2004. Five Fingers made their catwalk debut thanks to Balenciaga, which created a heeled version for the winter 2020/2021 season.
Photo from social media
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