There are some handbags designs that have become iconic that weren’t originally designed for the runway, but for very different and specific purposes. Their story has changed over time, simultaneously with the evolution of society, the emergence of new needs to be met or thanks to new intuitions by designers. But they all shared an essential quality: a design that has stood the test of time. Here are ten of the most interesting examples, to which we add two bonus ones as – in their own unique way – they also introduced new concepts in the leather industry
by Massimiliano Viti
Louis Vuitton Noé
In 1932, a well-known champagne producer (whose identity has never been revealed) commissioned Louis Vuitton a specific bag – as a gift to his clients – that could hold various bottles of his finest champagne. In addition, it needed to be resistant enough to withstand a voyage through the ocean. Gaston-Louis Vuitton designed a rectangular-bottomed bucket bag that could transport five bottles of bubbly. Four of them, in a vertical position, while one put upside-down in the center. The bag’s rigid bottom and drawstring closure were designed to prevent breakage during travel. Then, to make it more comfortable to carry, was added an adjustable shoulder strap. The “champagne–holder” bag was given the name of Noé, because after the Great Flood, his ark ran ashore on mount Ararat (Armenia), and there he specifically planted the first vineyard in history, as a good omen.
Tote Bag
For fashion historians the first ever tote bag was designed by the American outdoor brand L.L Bean (Leon Leonwood Bean). In fact, in 1944 the brand launched the Bean’s Ice Carrier, a sturdy canvas bag specifically designed for the transportation of heavy ice blocks at home or on a boat, during a period in which electric refrigerators were not common, yet. The bag was more similar to a box with two handles. Renamed Boat and Tote in 1965, it was re-released with some colorful details, and it became a classic in New England.
Even the origins of the name are also peculiar. “Tote”, in english, is a verb, commonly used as a synonym for “to carry”, derived from a variation of the Kikongo, “tota”, or the Swahili, “tuta”. The success of the “Boat and Tote” led other companies to reproduce it. In 1962 it was done by Coach, which paved the way for luxury. Over time, materials and designs were more and more refined, its shape became much more structured and, finally, the tote became chic.
Messenger bag
In the early years of the last century, schoolbags became popular among students in order to carry books, notebooks and other school materials. They were generally made of leather or canvas and were characterized by a simple design, with a flap that could be closed with a buckle or a strap. During the 1950s and 60s, schoolbags became a trend, as they were used even by university students and young professionals, basically as a handy and elegant accessory. They were also used by mailmen who, during the 1950s, used to deliver letters while riding a bike. This bag was spacious and easily adjustable, with various foldings, to the number of letters or small packages to be delivered. The iconic messenger bag with flap and buckles became a fashion accessory that recalls a preppy and vintage style.
The Duffel Bag
Back in the 18th century, in the Belgian town of Duffel, a thick wool-like fabric was produced and used to make bags carried by Spanish and Portuguese sailors to transport their personal belongings and other items. But, when it got wet, the bag became extremely heavy. So, the sailors started to sew canvas cut outs taken from sails and, so, the bags became more lightweight and weather-resistant. This duffel bag was used for centuries and, during World War I it became part of the soldiers’ equipment. Progressively, it started to get a more cylindrical shape. This duffel bag was then reused during World War II, but with a few new features in order to make it more durable and easy to carry. Since the war, the cylindrical bag has endured to the present day, where it is considered a must-have for gym enthusiasts.
Hermès Kelly
Back in 1837, when the maison was founded, it was designed as a saddle-holder bag for knights heading out on hunting trips. In 1930, Robert Dumas, son-in-law of Èmile Hermès and his direct successor in the management of Hermès, launched a new women’s model, significantly reducing its size. In 1956, Grace Kelly was pregnant with her first child, Carolina. But, since she wanted to protect her from paparazzi, she decided not to share the news. Surrounded by photographers, she instinctively shielded her growing baby bump with the Hermès bag. These pictures became an unwitting yet powerful advertising for the bag, which from that moment on everyone called the Kelly. It wasn’t until 1977 that Hermès officially renamed the model, which currently is one of the maison’s most prestigious ones.
Hermès Haut à Courroies (HAC)
It is the oldest bag of the French maison. In 1892 was created the Haut à Courroies model, which literally means “tall with straps”, highlighting its upward-sloping shape, along with the presence of its long straps. It was a spacious and vertical bag, designed for the transportation of riding boots, saddles and other equestrian equipment during travel and horse races. With the decline in usage of horse-drawn carriages and the arrival of the automobile, Hermès was forced to re-adapt the bag, transforming it into an elegant travel bag for cars and the first trains.
Actually, this model represents the historical link between the equestrian origins of the brand and the modern fashion industry, in terms of luxury. It is considered the precursor of Hermès’s most famous models. Compared to the Birkin, it is taller and more upright, it boasts the proportions of a travel bag, and it preserves a character which is actually more connected to its functional origins. Nowadays, the HAC is considered a collector’s item, and it is especially appreciated in its most spacious variants (sizes ranging from 40 to 60 cm), as a weekend bag or a luxury travel one.
The Backpack
From being an essential item for climbers, to becoming a valuable accessory for everyday life and fashion. The modern history of the backpack dates back to the late 1960s, when Murray McCory (born Murray John Pletz), an industrial design student at the University of Washington and a mountain hiking enthusiast, was struck by the idea that aluminium could transform and make backpacks and bags much more comfortable. Jan Lewis, a student at the same university, personally sewed the first prototype of what would eventually become the JanSport mountain backpack; characterized by ultra-light Nylon and an aluminium inner frame, in order to make it more comfortable for the back.
With this innovative idea, the couple won a contest and decided to launch this brand new backpack on the market. So, in 1967, JanSport was born. It was exactly the backpack designed by this brand to permanently change the approach to this “daily luggage”; firstly for all the students, whose hands were free from the amount of books they had to carry. This idea caught on at American universities, before globally spreading to schools and, nowadays, to the streets all around the world.
The belt bag
The belt bag is the accessory that best exemplifies the evolution from a purely practical item to a fashion icon. Some experts trace the origins of this item back to prehistoric times, when the homo sapiens were used to go hunting with a belt which featured a few pouches sewn on it. During the World Wars, the belt bag was actually a strategic accessory for soldiers. During the 1960s it was mainly used by sports people, while in the 1980s it was usually displayed by rappers.
But it was the 1990s that made it the true star of men’s fashion, especially during informal occasions, such as trips or outings. So, born from the necessity of carrying small items while keeping the hands free, it has gone through centuries of history, before becoming a true staple of contemporary fashion. In recent years, its presence on the runways has been inconsistent, alternating between periods of absence and great popularity.
The camera bag
Before 1920, cameras were enormous and they had to be carried in specific heavy trunks. With the invention of the Leica I (the first compact 35mm film camera), photographers began traveling on foot, using the first leather camera cases. During World War II, with the birth of modern photojournalism, reporters realized the need for soft and waterproof bags, featuring more inner compartments as well. The modern camera bag first appeared in 1976, when Jim Domke, photoreporter for the Philadelphia Inquirer, designed the Domke F-2: a bag made of soft canvas that conformed to the photographer’s body.
Then Karl Lagerfeld, for Chanel, was the first to foresee the aesthetic potential of this item when, back in 1982, he designed the Chanel Camera Case. Among the most famous and best-selling are the Gucci Soho Disco, the GG Marmont Camera Bag, the Saint Laurent Lou Camera Bag and the Marc Jacobs The Snapshot.
The doctor bag
The doctor bag derives from the Gladstone bag, a lightweight suitcase that was invented in England in the mid-19th century by J. G. Beard. The name was paying homage to William Ewart Gladstone, who served as English Prime Minister on several occasions. Between the late 19th and early 20th century, doctors began making house calls and they adapted the Gladstone, in a smaller version of the original. Fashion began to embrace it, as women started to look for everyday bags that weren’t merely decorative, but also spacious and structured.
During the 1950s, the Italian designer Giuliana Coen launched, for the Roberta di Camerino brand, the Bagonghi bag. From that moment on, the doctor bag lost its healthcare purpose and became a permanent fixture in luxury leather goods collections. Among the most famous doctor bags stand out the Prada Doctor Bag and the Story collection of The Bridge. Then, the Louis Vuitton Speedy, Hermès Bolide and Celine Luggage Tote are all models that essentially recall the shape and the structure of the doctor bag.
Out of competition: Balenciaga
The Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia has led Balenciaga as creative director for almost ten years, from his debut, which happened in the fall of 2015 (with the A/I 2016 fashion show), until early 2025. Over the course of this decade he launched various unconventional and provocative bags that sparked discussions on social media. In this regard, let us recall the infamous Trash Pouch (A/I 2022), clearly inspired by a garbage bag, which has been sold for about 1.790 dollars.
Then, the Lay’s Potato Chip Bag, a 1.800 dollar leather pochette that faithfully replicated a crumpled bag of Lay’s potato chips in every minute graphic detail. Once again: the Arena Extra-Large shopper; a bag that is identical, in shape and color, to Ikea’s iconic (and cheap) Frakta shopping bag, sold for more than 2000 dollars. Finally, a mesh bag that mimicked the classic perforated shopping bag used at local markets. And, then, the rigid one that reproduced the shape of plastic or paper supermarket bags, with prices exceeding 900 euros.
The Freitag case
Markus Freitag, student of an art school in Zurich, needs a practical, durable and waterproof bag, in order to carry his drawing papers. He lives near the highway and he always sees many trucks passing by, covered with large and sturdy tarps. So, he’s struck with an idea and, in 1993, he and his brother Daniel create the first prototype of the Messenger Bag F13 Top Cat, which is then tested by the community of bike couriers of San Francisco, where Daniel lives. Shortly after, they launched the brand of bags, accessories and clothing Freitag. The “messenger bag”, made by recycling old truck tarps, used bicycle inner tubes and discarded seat belts, became a design icon. Subsequently, it was then even exhibited at the MOMA – Museum of Modern Art of New York.
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